Monday 26 July 2010

Westminster Cathedral


Our final trip together was to the magnificent Westminster Cathedral, near Victoria station in central London. A stunning, almost Byzantine-style building, which is perhaps even more beautiful within than it is from the outside. We were met this time by Tom who took us inside and into the baptistry to learn about and discuss Catholicism and the cathedral. He gave us a brief history of Catholicism in England, particularly since the time the Henry VIII and the schism that would later outlaw the practice of the popish tradition in the country for 300 years. He enthusiastically regaled my avid little gang of wide-eyed English students with the history of the schism and the now age-old animosity between Catholics and Protestants and some of the implications and reverberations in modern times in parts of Scotland and Ireland for instance. He described martyrdom in the catholic church and the oppression adherents had suffered over the centuries. 
He told us that the cathedral had been designed in this astonishing fashion, because its founders had wanted to stand apart from Wren's Anglican St Paul's. Most Catholic cathedrals will adhere to either a classical style, such as St Mark's in Venice or the Sacre Coeur in Paris, or else a gothic style is used as in il Duomo in Milan or Notre Dam in Paris. But the Gothic element in London already existed in the shape of Westminster Abbey, just down the road. The Abbey has long since been the second home of the Anglicans so that wouldn't do either. The Catholics in London wanted a distinct, unique temple in London and this was the spectacular answer they came up with.



Tom went on to describe the core beliefs and practices of the Catholic Church: how Jesus, when he departed this world, left the church in the hands of St Peter, who became the first pope. 
He described how protestant groups had rejected the idea of a pope but Catholics still revere the hierarchy in The Vatican and that that was one of the key differences between Catholics and Protestants. Also that Catholics believed in praying to saints as well as Jesus. We learned a lot from Tom's introduction and everyone seemed to keep an open mind. He was then struck by a barrage of questions, which I found very gratifying as the teacher, even if the grammar occasionally missed the mark - they were making themselves understood, and that is the most important thing. 
There was some pretty tough material coming up, including such controversial issues as the prohibition of contraceptives in parts of the world where AIDS/HIV is a particularly big problem (Catholics are usually against any kind of artificial contraceptive). Tom took the questions coolly and answered with clarity, confidence and patience. His personal attitude to that specific issue seemed rather enlightened and less conservative than you might imagine. I was impressed and I think the students were too. Many of my students are from Latin-American countries and therefore have a Catholic background themselves. There were some heated exchanges between some of them and one or two of my Muslim students, but all in an amicable and respectful spirit of learning.


After the discussion time we thanked Tom and then separated to wander around the vast Cathedral with its spectacular mosaics. Tom tells us they hope one day to complete the whole of the building in this style. To finish the trip we all went up the tower together to see the view over London (don't bother with the London Eye - it's much cheaper at Westminster) and then finally we went our separate ways for the last time. It's been an amazing experience. I've learned a great deal through these visits over the past couple of months. I intend to revisit these place often as long as I live in London. The constant revelries through the modern wheel of the year: at Eid, Hanukkah, Diwali, Christmas and so on, Water festivals at the Thai temple and concerts at Westminster Cathedral: it's all there and all free! This is a side of London, in my estimation, not to be ignored by the tourist, nor by the Londoner either.

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